The crack is pretty narrow, not sure how wide I can get it For toothpicks etc. Any glue fsilure means that the whole crack is then contaminated with the failed glue. I dont want to over complicate things, but I would like to only do this once. The hot stuff thicker version has much longer time but I winder how thick it is to really wick down into the crack. That seems too short to open up and then close after application. It is only the thickness (and toughness) of the dowels that is giving strength to the stock in the repair area. Also, even moderate side pressure will break the stock. It could come undone, depending on the rifle's recoil. But you will need to get some rough measurements of the repair area at a minimum. If dealing with a rotten stock, may decide that you need to cut out more than you initially thought. The Brownells “hot stiff” glue says in the description that the thin version only has a 5 second working time. Wood with a knot there should never have been used in a gun stock. 1 Investigate the area for repair This step should go without saying, but you should really look at the area in detail. I wonder if that will or coild mess up the adhesion of any glue that is used. I suspect that gun oil etc has accumulated and I think was “poured” into the crack to help keep moisture from wicking into the wood. How long has the elmers wood glue worked? I guess I have to believe there is better glue out there and only want to do this once. I do not believe it is a take down model. And occasionally a trip into the field for whitetail! Not sure I will hunt with this gun, but I sure want to keep it in the family and at least have a solid gun for fun at the range. If the crack is just a hairline I put Super Glue into it and clean off the excess before it sets. The repair is actually stronger than the wood. How is hot stuff any different than any other CA “superglue” that you can buy at the local hardware store? I have used West System epoxy for years with excellent success. Are these the best glue or is there something better out there? I have heard of ”accuglass” and also “hot stuff” glue for this type of repair. What will hurt the value of the gun more? Should I do nothing at all? Will opening up a bit and putting in some sort of super low viscosity glue and then close and clamp work? If so, what glue is recommended? Or will it have to be followed up with drilling and screwing in a pin be required?
Gun stock crack on the side repair how to#
So the obvious question is how to fix properly. Otherwise the but and forearm are beautiful old hardwood. The crack will “work” and open up a bit when I torque the butt stock. I recently inherited this gun that has remained in my family for a mong time. So sorry for probably a common question and how to fix a crack in the tang of the butt stick.
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